August 16th,
Arrived at Bald River Gorge Wilderness in TN near noon and promptly got wet in Bald River Falls. The hole has many logs and branches in it, also it's right next to the road, which raises the potential of broken glass and riff-raff. What a pity for such a beautiful cascade.
Uwharrie and I embarked on a 16 mile trail run looping thru the wilderness. We started 2 miles down the Tellico River road and crossed the river where there are the ruins of a footbridge. This was the beginning of the Basin Lead Trail, but quickly it became clear to us that the trail had long been abandoned. We bushwhacked up to the top of the ridge before hitting extensive briar patches and finally giving up.
Back to the falls, we reversed directions of the loop and headed up the Bald River trail, which is in fine shape. We immediately came upon several holes that deserved attention. I finally settled on one where we remained until evening. It was here that I experienced what it must feel like to hang on to a comet. A hidden jug handle accessed by an acrobatic twisting leap provides those fortunate enough with a perfect hold beneath the funneled foamy fury of Bald River.
Hanging on for the sheer enjoyment of dear life and breathing in an air pocket, I could see, feel and most certainly hear the white water flowing across every inch of my flailing body. When satiated, a simple release of my grip sent me hurtling into a world of tranquil waters. A flat sunny rock nearby sealed the deal of this fine recreational establishment. But now it was time to find a campsite safely nestled away from any potential repeat of last night's episode.
At length, we returned to the Cherohala Skyway. Falls Branch trail jumped out at me after a quick survey of the topo map. We set off down the jewelweed boulevard to a campsite at the falls. I had forgotten my headlamp and didn't realize it had started to rain until I finished my evening shower in the falls. It was at this time that it got dark and the uneven area under our tarp became a swimming pool. Consequently, I had nothing to eat for dinner and felt genuinely thankful and happy (after a quick session of jury-rigging) to have a dry spot for man and dog to sleep. What a wonderful day!
August 17th,
Packed up and climbed up to the TH after a breakfast of butter and bread. We arrived just as my parents came driving in from NC. I took advantage of this opportunity to dry some wet gear in the glorious sun. After caching my car at Grassy Gap, we all set off to Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. Here my mom got a chance to finally see this rich "virgin" mountain cove filled with massive tulip poplars and hemlocks. The hemlocks in this area are already mostly dead from the adelgid (
to love and let go).
It was a fun two mile tour on foot and a good warm-up for our highly anticipated 4-day expedition thru the wilderness. We arrived at Cheoah Dam at noon. A hot 2 mile hike brought us to where Slickrock Creek empties into Calderwood Lake (formerly known as the Little TN River). We are now getting to know this magnificent creek and all its miraculous holes quite intimately as we follow it upstream for 2 days to its humble beginning.
There are too many places to write about! But I have been taking some documentary footage! This has been a good day. I'm now beside a fire enjoying the ear-candy of a katydid creek lullaby.
August 18th,
Spent the morning at a triple-decker swimming hole along Slickrock Creek. At noon, we began the long climb to Bob Bald thru the verdant jubilee of a high summer rainforest. The creek grew quieter and quieter nestled away underneath a jumble of mossy boulders. A nap and last-chance dip soon after crossing Hangover Creek preceded the steepest and most humbling section of today's ascent.
We had to walk carefully around a beautiful 6-foot timber rattler that was coiled and ready to strike. After many switchbacks, we achieved a heath bald ridge and could finally see the elusive saddle from our high perch. By the time we reached the gap, all our dignity and pride had been stripped bare by the mountain's power; Naked Ground is a good name for this place.
Along the wonderful ridge, white snake root and wood asters grow beneath dwarf beech trees. Blackberries and blueberries can be found near the grassy summit of Bob Bald. Here Tina and Gabby joined us at our campfire and shared wine and stories.
Tina has hiked all 900+ miles of trail in the Smokies from 2001 to 2006. She is also very familiar with this area and says that the North Fork of Citico Creek has many good swimming holes. I'm looking forward to exploring the North Fork tomorrow!
August 19th,
Coyotes and heavy dew last night. Clouds: high and extensive cirrus layer to the west this morning. The tarp is wet and heavy. Had coffee by a roaring fire and felt anxious to be beside a deep and cold creek under a hot sun. I do love sleeping out on summits, but in late summer, there's nothing better than an amphibious lifestyle in the Appalachians. Salamanders know what's up!
We set off fairly early down to Cherry Log Gap on the Benton Mackaye trail. Turning west, we dropped steeply into the genesis of the North Fork of Citico Creek. Things got wild as trail and creek became one thru dense laurel thickets. Scrambling over slick boulders, we were zapped by yellow jackets. They injected us with their fire and life.
We descended deep into the valley. The creek grew up quickly. Also, the sun emerged from the clouds. Excitement mounted. We passed several fine campsites and shallow holes. Haunted with memories of the deep cold of Slickrock, we kept searching until the junction of the south and north fork of Citico.
Here we finally settled on a shallow and sunny spot to have lunch, sleep and swim. It was good, yet Citico would be quite something with a little more water. Comparing the level of Slickrock with the
time I was here in June, it seems the Creek may be down as much as 2 feet. Queen of the meadow and bee balm is in bloom along the South Fork. I spotted a ~300 pound black bear drinking at the creek. It heard the dog and bounded up the steep hillside on the opposite bank. We picked out a nice campsite by the creek and enjoyed a great fire and peaceful evening.
August 20th,
It’s a rainy morning, a beautiful and natural mood for these woods. We ascend along Grassy Branch nearing the Skyway. We have all-too-quickly traversed this wilderness. For a short time, it feels as though we are still in the green heart of it all, but soon I encounter the detritus of our death star: a pepsi can indicates it’s not far now... It’s never far now.
This has been a wonderful hike. I was thinking of how therapeutic such an experience can be. There are so many shrinks and drugs in the world, but the best medication is free and easy. Unfortunately everyday I suffer to see loved ones falling further away into the fantasy world. We have put our medicine high on the mountain shelf, and few reach for it.
And those fortunate few, yes those foolish fortunate few want to make the same mistakes over and over again. We drive eastward and I see the sobering signs: billboards for mountain real-estate, for gated communities, golf courses... The river waters are the color of clay, the mark of development. We are drawing the blade across our wrists! I’m a meteor streaking across the sky: reentry.
We enjoy a garlic, artichoke, spinach and feta pizza with Highlands oatmeal porter at Anthony’s. It’s delicious. On the way home, I visit Skinny Dip falls. That too is delicious. I need to always remember that now matters... Re
joyce in the moment!
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