Monday, May 21, 2007

in circles (part 2)

The 2007 Trail Days celebration in Damascus, VA has come to a close. Most of the freaks have now left this overstimulated mountain community alone. Is this love or confusion? Keep loving and call it love, or keep confusing and call it confusion...

We had a good time meeting many friends who are on and off the trail. Jen, Molly and Nellie came up from SC to visit and brought fresh greens from the garden! It was great to hang out and chew the spinach with them.

Thanks to Jeff and Dan of Granite Gear, I got a chance to make some modifications and reinforcements to my homemade backpack. The support from this community of free spirits is overwhelming.

We'll be heading back to Harpers Ferry with Ron, Laura and the Flying Porkchop this evening. Once again, I long to quietly exist in the woods. And yet I already miss this fleeting time with friends.

oh yeah, happy birthday to the blog...


pps. check out wilderness & spirit if you get the chance... Katahdin beckons!!!

Friday, May 18, 2007

in circles (part 1)

Where the mighty Shenandoah and Potomac meet, there's Harpers Ferry, WV. Cradled steeply in time and space among ancient mountains, this tourist trap is truly a special place.

The nomadic pulse of the spirit brought us to town; the restless mind and weary body kept us here. We stayed a while. I painted the interior of the Harpers Ferry General Store to earn keep. The Outfitter folks welcomed me more as an honered guest than a migrant worker.

Energized on acorn squash, Ron, Laura, Uwharrie and I boarded an Isuzu trooper and set sail across suburban cess pools to Damascus, VA.

En route, there happened to be this minor detour to rescue the Flying Porkchop from a broken down La Charo Winnebago somewhere in the boonies of WV. But that's just another story and just another reason to hang around...

...And Damascus is still the best damn trail town I know.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

to harpers ferry, wv



U-dog's account:

"We crossed a couple state lines in the last day and a half, I forget their names. They're green and purty all the same. There're some noisy cars crossing the shennie river, but I were'nt skeered. We got our pics taken at the ATC headquarters. I even got a doggie treat from some sweetheart there!

We're staying at the Harpers Ferry hostel. Matt's inside cooking up some pizzas with Dr. John and Carefree. As usual, I'm stuck outside. I'll probably score some pepperoni. Dr. John's good about hooking me up with that stuff.

Matt's pinching me all the time. He likes to pluck little dots off my arm pits and let me sniff 'em. He calls 'em 'ticks' but they ain't treats or nothin' special like that. He's fixin' to get a hand bit off if he keeps it up.

whuz fo' breakfast, carefree?!

We're still trying to catch us a ride to trail days in Damascus, VA. If we do, we may see some of you bird dogs there. If not, know we be thinking about you, hoping you're well. The trail's getting awful rocky. Matt says it's gonna get worse. My pads are holding up OK, but I don't know about his pads. He's got little bird feet afterall...

Peace out for now! Please send your beef jerky to:

Princess U-dog / Matthew Kirk
c/o General Delivery
Hold for AT hiker ETA 5/22
Duncannon, PA 17020"

Saturday, May 12, 2007

to the bears den

"But life without death is just impossible to realize... Feeling yourself disintegrate..." -The Flaming Lips

Hey Bear!

By popular demand, here's an excerpt from U-dog's journal:

"Howdy to all my fellow bird dogs! This has been the ultimate walk. The Shenandoahs smell like deer poop, which is cool. I met a dog dude named 'Swamp Monster' who was pretty chill for a golden retriever. There're lots of little bunnies that would make good snacks. Matt says I can't eat them, or I'll be in trouble. I'm gonna try to munch one on the side, when he's not looking.

"I like to sleep. I like to lie on Matt's fart sack, but he gets all upset and is totally like 'this is my sack, you don't get one.' He gives me some dinky pad, but I want my own sack... and lots of ice cream sandwiches. So to all my peeps, peace out!"

Thanks for the goodies and well wishes in Waynesboro! Uwharrie and I entered the Shenandoah National Park (SNP) on Cinco de Mayo. The vernal tide is slowly on the rise in this wondrous place. Cool runnings in the sunshine have been my study where I can think quite clearly...

We love springtime, but it's difficult to remember that every moment is spring. If we are forever living in the moment, every day, every hour, every second is springtime, just as it's summer, fall and winter too! Wow.

"This is, I think, one little part of what Christ meant by saying that a thing will not really live unless it first dies. It is simply no good trying to keep any thrill: that is the very worst thing you can do. Let the thrill go- let it die away- go on through that period of death into the quieter interest and happiness that follow- and you will find you are living in a world of new thrills all the time. But if you decide to make thrills your regular diet and try to prolong them artificially, they will all get weaker and weaker, and fewer and fewer, and you will be a bored, disillusioned person for the rest of your life."

This is an excerpt from "Mere Christianity" by C.S. Lewis. It's been a very slow, but engaging read for me. It's difficult to read this book all that fast as I must meditate on the subject matter for a good while. I think speed is dangerous anyway.

We've been walking through a devastated forest filled with deadfall. It's a massive wildfire waiting to happen. Poor air quality, invasive insects, and ice storms are to blame. Despite all the death, there's abundant life out here. Songbirds are going crazy, filling the forest with jubillant sounds. The rufous-sided towees in particular have been making quite a rucous.

We hiked from a crowded Calf Mountain shelter to camp near the Doyles River cabin. While Carefree and I were cooking supper on the cabin's porch, a few friendly college folks hiked in to join us. The three Duke students had rented the cabin to come celebrate their upcoming graduation. They were gracious enough to invite two smelly hikers and a dog to join them. What a treat!

The next day was far less populated with people. Uwharrie and I hiked to the Loft Mountain wayside for breakfast. I enjoyed some pricey blueberry pancakes, then we hiked onwards into the sunshine. The wildlife seems rather tame and/or retarded out here. Uwharrie stepped right over a baby bunny and the deer hardly moved from the trail to let us pass. It's absurd. U-dog says we can have us some venison, all I have to do is give the word...

But I've been enjoying some other kind of wild food. At Hightop Hut, I cooked up some of the abundant stinging nettle to add to the cheesy pasta I had in a garlic and sweet potato sauce. A little leftover tequilla and dark chocolate to wash it all down... Delicious! Thanks to Elliot and Jen for the hook-ups.

The next day was a long push under the hot sun to make it to Rock Spring hut. We stopped at Lewis Mountain campground and enjoyed five rapid-fire fifty cent ice cream sandwiches. The next five miles went by in a sugar/dairy-high blur.

The Shennies have been a beautiful and yet bizarre experience. This park is a good demonstration of the dire effects of air pollution on the environment. However, most visitors seem oblivious to the dying forest around them. This was most noticeable among the people milling around at the Big Meadows Lodge where I savored a pricey pint of brew.

Dr. John and Carefree joined us at Rock Spring hut. We cooked our dinners and quickly conked out. I awoke still feeling tired. We hiked over to the Skyland lodge for breakfast. A hot water "bird bath" in the restroom followed by a cheese and tomato omelette, potato, biscuit and a couple cups of coffee woke me up!

But as we dropped down off of Mary's Rock, I again felt sleepy. We arrived to Pass Mtn. hut before a medley of other folks began to trickle in. We opted to tent out due to the alleged mouse infestation. This helped me get a much needed good night's rest.

The next morning, we met Biscuit, Strider, Rennaisance Man, and Many Names. The Caterer (Biscuit's dad) was slackpacking them through SNP. Uwharrie got hooked up with some dog food and I got hooked up with some dude food from their mobile grub unit. Thanks!

Our first bear spotting on the trek took place just south of Elkwallow Gap. We spotted a mother and two cubs emerging from the top of a dead hollow tree 25 yards up the trail. The mother and one cub climbed down to the ground while another cub hesitated halfway out of the hole. A couple motherly grunts coaxed the stray into a gingerly descent to join the family in their slow escape.

Uwharrie and I soon arrived at the wayside to enjoy a blackberry milkshake and sit and digest our awesome bear encounter. I resupplied in the store with a few more days of food, and a couple tall tasty cold ones. After talking with the passers-by, we hiked onwards up over the Hogback peaks.

We left the SNP and joined Carefree and Dr. John at the Tom Floyd wayside. I passed out after supper and slept like a log. The next day's hike was hot and humid, but enjoyable nonetheless. We were able to push all the way through a lush wildflower-riddled rainforest to Dick's Dome shelter. We were joined by a friendly group from Temple University at this oddly shaped structure.

The next day started with a pleasant and cool hike over Sky Meadow. Conveniently, the ominous sky waited to open the flood gates until right after we arrived at Rod Hollow shelter. We joined Many Names, Rennaisance Man, Biscuit and Gojo for lunch. Biscuit hooked me up with a spoon, which was much appreciated. I had lost my spork back at Pass Mtn. hut and had been improvising as best as possible for the last few days.

Onwards, onwards through a lush rainforest; we tackled the infamous rocky rollercoaster to get to Bears Den Hostel. This is one of my favorite places along the entire trail. Queen Deva does a great job running the hostel. Definitely check it out if you get the chance! Happy Mothers Day to all the mothers out there.

Friday, May 04, 2007

to waynesboro, va

The James River Gorge

Memories of Brown Mountain Creek: "Observe as you walk. Be aware that history surrounds you. Keep your eyes and mind open to explore the secrets held by the land..."

Spring is here, and as Adam Hill would say, it's "ferntastic!" I don't feel like much of a journalist lately. I should be hard at work recording all the flourescent life unfurling around us. But these days, we don't do much beyond the Ritual: sleep, eat, walk, eat, sleep, walk, eat, sleep...

Life is a balancing act. And it's exhilirating to be so close to an equilibrium where mind, body and spirit are equally taxed; days well spent. We listen to live performances of juncos, chickadees, vireos, scarlet tanangiers, jays, cardinals, oven birds and barred owls among others.

I've been having vivid dreams, but I'm a dunce really and can't make much sense of them. Messages beemed to me from every nook and cranny of time and space are lost to the waking life. I sit and swing in the mountain breeze. Patience seems to come easier to the sheltowees among us.

A dream rhapsody: "From pop to hip hop, walking the clip clop. above the landscape, but drifting with it, to understand it..."

Lois and Earl have a fine establishment in Montebello called the Dutch Haus. We took advantage of the free lunch they offer to all hikers. They've fed and housed several thousand wanderers in the last seven years. It's really quite something. I recommend a stop if you're ever hiking thru. We met the Brain, Caterpiller, Ike, and caught up with Dice there.

Upper Crabtree Falls

The month of May has arrived, and it's swimming hole season. We found a nice spot to cool off in the South Fork of the Tye River before ascending Crabtree Falls, which is a worthy blue-blaze. We spent a peaceful night alone in the Priest shelter.

A lazy day sprawled out along the hot pebbled banks of the Tye preceded delightful magic from Double Nickels (GAME '04). The goodies got us geared up to tackle the spectacular Mar Har trail to Maupin Field. We splashed around in the creek before a thunderstorm finally chased us into the shelter.

We joined a group of hikers there including Jaybird and Jigsaw. Uwharrie and I camped out nearby and stayed high and dry as the day drizzled on into night. A morning lull enabled us to comfortably pack, eat and be on our way. We hiked all day in a cold rain parallel to the parkway.

We arrived to the Paul Wolfe Memorial shelter, which is a mansion of a mountain retreat alongside Mill Creek. Jaybird, Jigsaw, Dice, Caterpiller, Ike, Heinz and a few section hikers joined us for the evening. The next morning we walked the short distance to Rockfish Gap.

The folks at the visitor center were extremely helpful. One fellow volunteered to drive us into Waynesboro. This town has all the amenities a hiker could want, including free showers and tenting at the YMCA! It's sad to saunter through a dying downtown and worry over what the future holds for this blue-collar community.

I found myself talking with a few locals. I wandered into a cobbler's shop. I got to talking with Duffy, one of the few remaining cobblers around. He's a great guy, we talked about small business, small towns, small people with simple dreams of a better world. Later, I intend go hear him play his guitar at the bar in town and drink a Guinness and soak up this slice of Americana.