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| Route 11: 108.7 miles; 96.6 new; 34:30 (plus 20:00 @ BC 71 and 83) |
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| +16,151', -20,355' |
The world along with GSMNP has been waking up from shutdown. With me starting a new job next week, this was likely my last extended
postman route for some time. Mo joined me again and we set our sights on the remote Fontana region of the park.
Nancy graciously shuttled us from Lakeshore to Clingmans. She and a hiking partner will soon attempt an FKT of the GSMNP 900!
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| A drizzly start from Clingmans Dome |
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| Upper Forney Creek |
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| Azaleas blooming along Springhouse Branch |
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| Airing out the feet at BC 64 |
We got started with day 1 (Wednesday, June 10th) at 9:20 am from Forney Ridge TH atop Clingmans. Mo took a different route to BC 71. For me, the first ten miles were all downhill along Forney Creek. I cached about 10 pounds of mostly food and some gear at our camp before returning back up Clingmans via Springhouse Branch. I passed Mo on the out-and-back spur down to Noland Creek.
Despite the drizzle, Mo seemed to be in good spirits while I was having a hard time getting into a groove. My mind was on matters outside of the park. A temporary break in the weather and impromptu foot air-out session at the Noland Creek turnaround helped improve my outlook. But the clouds moved back in by Andrews Bald. And by the time I reached the AT, there was a blowing rain.
At Double Spring Shelter, I enjoyed warming up by a fire and talking to some AT hikers while out of the weather for a few minutes. The wind let up by Welch Ridge, the rain let up by Jonas Creek and the promise of a hot dinner was like a tractor beam. I made good time into camp. After dark, Mo and I enjoyed the firefly show. Both synchronous and ghost species were on display.
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| Heating coffee with homemade 2.5 oz collapsible kit |
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| Hobble along Bear Creek |
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| Sultan embraces the sun |
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| View from High Rocks |
Come morning of day 2, I heated water for coffee on an inelegant origami pot fashioned from an aluminum baking pan. By 7:15 am, Mo and I were headed down Forney Creek. I added a four mile loop down Forney Creek and back via Whiteoak Branch before starting the long climb of the day up the occasionally overgrown Bear Creek. I reconnected with Mo at High Rocks.
Mo had decided to commit to an ultra marathon distance for the day by adding a 17 mile loop. I was impressed. We both took advantage of the beautiful weather atop High Rocks to air out our feet and fuel up before tackling the many miles ahead. Nancy had warned us about the slippery footing down Cold Spring Gap. We proceeded with caution knowing that we would repeat this trail later in the day.
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| Wood betony(?) along Cold Spring Gap |
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| Upper Hazel Creek |
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| The beauty of Welch Ridge |
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| Hall Cabin, Bone Valley |
The long ascent up Hazel Creek had many refreshing crossings. Soon a pleasant breeze greeted me on Welch Ridge. It took nearly five hours to complete the loop and return to my cache of gear and food along Hazel Creek. Craving a warm salty meal, I heated a heaping bowl of garlic and tuna ramen at BC 83 and ate dinner while hiking Bone Valley out and back. I made it back by 8:15 pm. Mo came into camp and was quickly back out again without his pack for the round trip to Bone Valley.
While starting a campfire to welcome Mo's return, it was time for me to decide whether to extend this adventure into a 4-day 150-mile route, or to exit on day 3 with 108 miles. Over 75 miles into the adventure and with a lot on my mind, I felt content with the shorter option. I started eating all I could and burning much of the rest of my day 4 food in the fire. By the time Mo made it back, I was feeling a bit nauseous and went to lie down under my tarp and quilt.
I hardly slept due to nausea and bouts of diarrhea. This was a bad place to get sick. At 3:15 am, I broke camp to start the long sad walk. Forever the MVP, Mo got up with me. We hiked together down Hazel Creek toward Lakeshore. We swapped stories of bygone adventures. I couldn't stomach any food or water. After trying to force a little down, I vomited twice. Feeling a little better, I suddenly couldn't stay awake. We laid down along the trail and I slept for about an hour until dawn.
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| Not my fondest memory |
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| Ollie Cove |
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| Goldmine rhodo furnace |
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| A light at the end of the tunnel |
We woke up close to Lakeshore and now had to decide whether to opt for a shorter exit toward Fontana Dam or head toward the tunnel. I couldn't yet stomach food, but was successfully holding down water. Having lost fluids, I decided to go heavy on salt and fizzy tabs and not worry about calories. We decided to stick to the itinerary. After tagging Ollie Cove, Mo told me to go ahead.
Mo had the experience and equipment necessary to get out safely so I powered ahead solo through a scorching relentless roller coaster. On the leeward side of the mountains, there was nary a breeze. At Forney Creek, I submerged my overheated body in the cold mountain water. This rejuvenated me just enough for the loop around Goldmine and Tunnel Bypass. I finished through the tunnel by 3:50 pm. Mo finished a few hours behind. This was definitely the toughest outing yet.
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